Yeah, that’s white-space stripping, and waste of time white-space stripping at that… and really slow waste of time white space stripping.
ultranerds sent me their URL via PM, and it’s being sent compressed by apache anyways, so that script is making it take MORE time, not less.
Looking at the code in question, it’s chock full knee deep with outdated markup. It is EXACTLY the type of code I’m referring to when I say don’t waste your time on all that scripted nonsense and white-space stripping, instead write MODERN MARKUP with separation of presentation from content.
It’s knee deep in deprecated tags, tables for layout, non-semantic layout, heading tag abuse, invalid heading orders, etc, etc, etc…
For example, the first heading on the page is a h5, followed by two H6, and then TWENTY h1’s… and again skipping over h2, h3, h4, right to another h5 and two h6. Invalid heading orders and nonsensical document structure.
To put it in the simplest terms it’s 27k of markup after white-space stripping, that has WAY too many keywords stuffed in the meta(12:1 the keywords meta is being ignored on account of that), has what appears to be about 10k of static javascript inlined in the markup, and with 239 validation errors it’s not even HTML, it’s 100% gibberish.
That 27k of html is a real hair-raiser if for no other reason than there’s only 6k of content, a dozen content images and one object embed. There’s NO excuse for that to be more than 15k WITH whitespace still in it.
CSS more efficient is the LEAST of your problems.
Lemme give you an example, take this section (carefully chose a piece that would not reveal the website itself)
<table border=0 width="100%"><tr><td width="50%"><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>TRAVEL
WINDOW: </b> </font><p><font face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>From :</b> </font><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif">APRIL 19 -10 <br><b>To :</b> JUNE 30 - 10 </font> </p><p><font size=3 color="red" face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>CAT. OCEAN
VIEW SUPERIOR </b></font> </p><ul><li><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>DBL</b> $ 57,00 USD
PER NIGHT</font></li><li><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>SGL</b> $ 113,00 USD
PER NIGHT</font></li></ul></td><td width="50%"><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><wbr><b>TRAVEL WINDOW:</b> </font><p><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>From :</b> JULY 01-10 <br><b>To :</b> AUGUST 31- 10 </font> </p><p><font size=3 color="red" face="arial,helvetica,sansserif"><b>CAT. OCEAN
VIEW SUPERIOR </b></font> </p><ul><li><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif">DBL $64,00 USD PER NIGHT</font></li><li><font size=3 face="arial,helvetica,sansserif">SGL $127,00 USD PER
NIGHT</font></li></ul></td></tr></table>
Makes me immediately kneejerk “What is this, 1998?” See ALL those FONT declarations? GET RID OF THEM. That’s CSS’ job. See the paragraphs, you don’t actually seem to HAVE grammatical paragraphs of content there, so I’m not certain what you are even using those FOR…
That’s 1.2k even once whitespace stripped - Written “properly” that section would probably read:
<div class="travelBox">
<h2>Travel Window</h2>
<b>From:</b> April 19 - 10<br />
<b>To:</b> June 30 - 10<br />
<h3>CAT. OCEAN VIEW SUPERIOR</h3>
<ul>
<li><b>DBL</b> $ 57,00 USD</li>
<li><b>SGL</b> $ 113,00 USD PER NIGHT</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="travelBox">
<h2>Travel Window</h2>
<b>From:</b> July 01 - 10<br />
<b>To:</b> August 31 - 10<br />
<h3>CAT. OCEAN VIEW SUPERIOR</h3>
<ul>
<li><b>DBL</b> $ 64,00 USD</li>
<li><b>SGL</b> $ 127,00 USD PER NIGHT</li>
</ul>
</div>
Which is around 500 bytes, a reduction of more than HALF. Mind you that’ s a wild guess since I’m not 100% certain the “cat ocean view superior” should be a h3 since to me that’s gibberish… or should be the h2 before the “travel window” text. In general that section is very poorly written not just in code, but content as well.
But content issues aside, see what I mean? HALF the code. EVERYTHING else you are doing there could be handled from the CSS. CSS is cached, HTML is not.
If anything, I’d say you don’t HAVE enough CSS to be worrying about it… you’ve got WAY too much static stuff that SHOULD be in external files like .css and .js in the markup - that way you actually take advantage of the caching models.
Though the REAL pig is that steaming pile of javascript just to embed a flash element, and the time wasted on google analytics. What, don’t you have server logs? 
Oh, and another tip, if you are resorting to things like ‘blank.gif’ - you’re still coding using decade out of date methods.
Again, the CSS is the least of your problems there.