using both would be more accurate... Dreamweaver for the design and handcoding for balance and organized codes...
Dreamweaver doesn't design though - it's an editor.
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Its hard and painfull but infortunatly, Hand Codeing comes second to none, using Editing Programs Like Dreamweaver set you back rather than forwards. I also advise getting HomeSite 5 which is a branch off of Dreamweaver which deals with Raw Code Apposed to Designing and will close elements for you which is useful. Regards
To decide whether to use DW or hand code really depends one what you expect to achieve in the short and long term. If you want to really understand what you are doing and how each element is effected then although it is slower, I found hand coding much better.
I'm almost entirely self taught and have been in the industry for nearly 8 years. When I began I used both. I'd try hard to get something to work using hand coding but if I couldn't get the desired effect, I'd use DW. I'd also, time permitting, go back into the generated code and try to strip out the redundant parts and this really gave me a good idea what was really required, what wasn't and what each bit did.
Any time I learn a new language, I always try to use this approach. Learn the basics by hand if at all possible. If it doesn't work, use a tool but try to dismantle what it throws out.
If on the other hand you're not bothered about how the code reads and are happier just creating a nice looking website with the minimum of effort, DW will do that for you.
PS I recently had a 'discussion' with our legal dept about why it was going to take me more than 5 minutes to HTMLise a 450 line document. Their suggestion was to open in MS Word and save as HTML. To prove a point I did. Before the 450 lines had even started there was over 1600 lines of redundant, generated code! Good old MS!
This can be argued from both sides. I prefer a IDE personnaly.
CSS HTML - i use Dreamweaver CS3
PHP - php Designer 2008
layout - photoshop
logo - illustrator
word document - for blue print